The Double Axe Quilt is a very old design. This quilt
pattern falls into the scrappy category and the pieces may be cut from any
grain. Matching is not necessary as off grain cuts may add interest to the
quilt.
Construction of this quilt is not for the faint of heart. It
requires patience. Experienced dress makers should not have a problem with the
curves, albeit it is demanding. If you can sew a set-in sleeve, you can
definitely handle making this one.
Double Axe Quilt (Apple Core) General Instructions
- Make or purchase a template (Apple Core/Double Axe) and gather fabrics.
- Cut the total number of pieces that you need to complete the quilt size that you want.
- Clip the along the long (concave) curve edges of each axe piece, spacing the cuts about 1/4 inch apart.
- Decide on your fabric layout. Two colors may be used or try working with 7 or 9 coordinated colors. You may choose to go totally scrappy. Cut your pieces and then commit to the color layout.
Take a Picture *** Very Important***
After committing to the color lay out, take a picture!
You will refer back to the picture many time while constructing the the top.
Make Four-Patch Units
Pin and sew two sets of axes. Join the two units to complete one Four-Patch. Lay out the Four-Patch units into the total number of desired larger sections/panels, then join the panels.
Make Four-Patch Units
Pick up 4 matched axe pieces from your layout. Pin and sew two sets of axe together. Join the two units to complete one Four-Patch. Join Four-Patch units into the total number of desired rows.
Sewing
and joining axes
Pick up four axes. Sew two sets of axes stitching them on
the long(concave) curve, making sure they are positioned as shown in your
layout picture.
Generally stitching is easier on the long curve. This utilizes the stretch to make the pieces curve and fit. You will have made 1/8-inch plus clips along this seam, just shy of the 1/4-inch seam line. When clipped sufficiently, the axes line up perfectly with a little stretch on the long curve.
My preferences are pinning parallel along the seam line at ¼ inch or placing pins perpendicular into the seam and sewing ¼ inch. Stitch very slowly and pull out the pins just before stitching. DO NOT SEW ACCROSS THE PINS. This could damage your sewing machine.
Parallel or Perpendicular - Choose the method you prefer.
Reduce the speed on you sewing machine and sew very slowly.
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Top - pinned parallel Bottom - pinned perpendicular |
Parallel Pinning
Pull on the long curve (concave) lining it up and matching
edges. Handle sewing these curves as you would to insert sleeves. You will be sewing
in a curved direction, maintaining a ¼ -inch
seam.
Perpendicular Pinning
Pin two sections placing the pins in
parallel direction along the stitching line. You will sew up to the pin and
pull the pinout just before stitching.
Sew very slowly in a curved direction, stitching about ½ inch at a time and removing pins as you go just ahead of stitching. Based on your sewing machine, you may follow the Quarter Inch marker on your sewing machine plate, to help ensure ¼-inch seam and/or the Quarter Inch Foot. Stop along the way, lifting, straightening, and flattening fabric as needed.
Perpendicular
About ½ inch from the end, remove the last pin and use it to hold the seam in place as you sew to the end.
Parallel
The process is very similar to pinning perpendicular. Maintain a ¼-inch seam and sew slowly, stopping along the way to straighten fabric. Sew up to the pin and pull it out just before you stitch. DO NOT SEW ACCROSS PINS as this may damage your machine.
Sew 1/4 inch seams in a curved direction. Use the 1/4 inch guide on the machine plate or the foot as a guide for accurately stitching. Remove pins just prior to stitching.
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Sew 1/4 inch using parallel pinning method. |
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completed stitching of two axes |
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two axes joined |
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Pin and stretch the long edge of axe units. Sew stretching the long seams and stitching one complete seam. Nest at the center seam. |
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Back of Four Patch - pressed |
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Front of Four Patch - Pressed |
Helpful tutorial.
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